Chino Latino

It may occupy an enviable perch overlooking City Square in Leeds, but Chino Latino has never been at the forefront of my mind when it comes to dining out in Leeds. Maybe I’ve been put off by its comparatively higher prices, maybe it’s my inbuilt aversion to most ‘chain restaurants’, or maybe it just never battled hard enough to vie for my attention.

Maybe things have changed. You see, us Leeds folk are pretty spoilt for choice when it comes to the foodie offerings of the city, meaning restaurants can no longer just sit and wait for custom, even when occupying such a seemingly ideal location as Chino Latino. They need to prove their worth and give us, and our discerning palates, an inkling of why they deserve our business in a city overflowing with moreish options. So naturally, the arrival of an invite to Chino Latino’s menu relaunch in my inbox instantly piqued my interest. The sign of a restaurant ready and willing to demonstrate its value, it seemed only fair to give it a chance. After all, a bit of free food never hurt anyone 😉

A typically overcast spring day in Leeds was brightened by a cluster of red and black balloons outside Chino Latino, their gallant battle against the frenzied wind serving as a fitting poetic symbol of Chino Latino’s fight to be noticed. Warmly greeted once inside the entrance, we were guided up a flight of stairs to be welcomed with the cocktail du jour. A subtle, summery blend of vodka and cranberry with a hint of sparkle, it was a refreshing start as we sought out a seat in an already busy restaurant. We’d barely had time to acknowledge the rumbles in our post-work tummies when we were confronted by a conveyor belt-esque array of waiters and waitresses, descending on us one by one with a bounty of appetising bites. A very welcome confrontation indeed, we’d soon gathered quite a collection of alluring tasters which begged to be devoured immediately.

I’m a reluctant seafood scoffer, owing to over a decade of vegetarianism during which my rare ventures into the world of seafood have mostly been coated in a layer of batter with a side of chips and mushy peas. But my objections have no moral basis and whilst meat is likely to remain firmly off limits in my diet, I was in the mood for adventure which led me to start with the Crab and Scallop Sui Mai.

Attractively presented in a pristine scallop shell, I’m pleased to say that my first dalliance with crab completely confounded my expectations of overpowering and rubbery fishiness. Instead it was tender and melt-in-the-mouth, imbued with a perfectly balanced but powerful flavour that only hinted at its aquatic origins.

Next up was the Tofu Panko Breadcrumb Cube. Encased in a beautiful leafy parcel, its perfectly crisp exterior was an impeccable contrast to its soft interior, infused with a sizeable kick of chilli  If anything I could have stood a little more heat, but personal preferences aside it was an accomplished piece of work for the all-too-often-bland tofu.

Concluding my tasting trio was a rather moreish piece of Vegetarian Nigiri. An artfully compact parcel of moist, sticky rice adorned with a silky feather of avocado, it stuck two fingers up at the dry and flavourless morsels that so many restaurants can be guilty of serving.

Speaking of nigiri, this review is the first time I’ve made a concerted effort to correctly name the different variants of sushi. And the credit for this? Chino Latino. As we sipped our cocktails we were handed a scroll which contained, amongst other things, the ‘Chinopedia’. I LOVE this. We’ve all been there, eagerly anticipating the culinary delights of a restaurant only to be presented with a menu written in the mother tongue of the cuisine, AND WE DON’T UNDERSTAND A WORD! Not all of us are lucky enough to be fluent in a multitude of languages, so the Chinopedia addresses this by providing a glossary to accompany its menu. The alluring language of Pan-Asian cuisine remains intact, but we finally know what it all means! Brilliant. And incidentally, nigiri is ‘a style of sushi but the filling is laid on top of the sushi rice’. So there you go.

After hungrily devouring our loot, we were visited by one of the restaurant’s managers who explained the concept behind Chino Latino’s new menu. It was quite simple – giving patrons the choice of smaller plates to facilitate a more sociable way of eating, with no compromise on quality. There’s still the option to choose a larger plate if you “don’t share food” (yes OH, I’m looking at you), but the important thing is you have the choice, rather than being restricted to the standard ‘starter and main’.

The prospect of free food was a popular one for the folk of Leeds, and our initial onslaught of food was unfortunately halted by the arrival of more and more hungry folk. Any frustration we felt was to the credit of the food though – it was so good we just wanted more!

Chino Latino has propelled from obscurity to a serious contender for my hard-earned cash. Enticing Pan-Asian dishes and an extensive cocktail selection with views to boot, I’m already salivating at the prospect of a return visit. Nice one, Chino Latino.