Lisa Farrell headed to the unlikely location of Holmfirth for the latest in an ever-growing list of vineyards visited
West Yorkshire’s Holme Valley is an area of natural splendour showcasing Yorkshire at its very best. Beautiful, cascading countryside? Check. Quaint, Yorkshire stone-clad market towns? Check. Tasty, home grown wine… huh? Perhaps one of West Yorkshire’s best kept secrets, a former sheep farm in Holmfirth is the unlikely home of Holmfirth Vineyard, producing surprisingly delicious wines from the 7000 vines that cling to its steep slopes.
Although my first foray into English wine, I confess I’m in the throes of rather decadent love affair with vineyards. A passion fuelled by a recent round the world trip where I sniffed, swirled and guzzled my way through the vineyards of Australia, New Zealand and South America, I’ve become totally besotted with all things wine. It’s not just the enjoyment of drinking wine that I’ve fallen for (although this is very nice indeed), it’s so much more than that. It’s the intricacies of the winemaking process, the passion of the winemakers and the romance and poetry of the finished product that have captivated me, unlocking an unquenchable thirst (no pun intended) for wine knowledge that is now forming the basis for all subsequent holidays and trips away.
As such, I was treated to a trip to Holmfirth Vineyard for my birthday, indulging in a tour, tastings and lunch. As we left Leeds for t’country, I was in a giddy state of excitement, tinged with intrigue and a touch of apprehension. Yorkshire’s not exactly renowned for its wine production, so I really didn’t know what to expect – and whether it would be any good!
As first impressions go, Holmfirth Vineyard totally nails it. Reached via a narrow ‘road’ that unfurls through a series of hairpin bends situated on a very sharp incline, the vineyard suddenly appears, unveiling a location that rivals some of the most perfect settings of vineyards throughout the world. The vines balance on a precipice in Holme valley, overlooking a gorgeous horizon of tumbling peaks decorated in the green patchwork of Yorkshire. Beautiful.
Our visit began with a tour of the vineyard by its owner, Ian, during which he regaled us with the romantic story of how this unusually-located vineyard came to be. Ian bought the land with his wife a few years ago and, bound by restrictions dictating that the land retains an agricultural use, they decided to plant a vineyard to indulge their shared love for wine. As you do. A labour of love if ever there was one, Ian told us how they worked tirelessly to plant the vineyard BY HAND in the midst of a particularly arctic British winter, a winter which forced them to don ski gear as they worked! Ian’s passion and enthusiasm was infectious, and he repeatedly referred to the vineyard as a hobby, rather than a business. As hobbies go, it’s definitely up there, and I left the tour mulling over how I too could go about planting my own vineyard! Maybe one day…
By now we’d worked up quite a thirst, which brought us nicely onto the tasting. The first wine we tasted was Solaris, a white grape that has been specially cultivated to grown in cooler climates. It was fresh and fruity, with hints of elderflower and a dry finish. It was unlike any white I’ve tried before, but not bad at all! Next up was a rosé. I tend to stay away from rosé , marred by too many bad experiences as a student slurping cheap bottles in Headingley’s infamous haunts, but Holmfirth Vineyard’s take on rosé was enough to make me reconsider. An interesting wine fusing the characteristics of classic reds and whites with a grassy finish, it was understated yet refreshing – a perfect summer BBQ tipple! The tastings concluded with a blind tasting competition, where we were tasked with identifying the country of origin, region and grape variety (amongst other things) of an unknown glass of wine. Competitions always bring out the monster in me, and I made it my mission to win – answering every question correctly much to the disbelief (and annoyance!) of my fellow wine-tasters! I did indeed win, but I’m not sure if this is something to be proud of…
We rounded off an enlightening and very enjoyable morning with lunch in the Vineyard’s café. The setting is nothing short of idyllic – a small, glass-fronted room with a handful of tables overlooking the vineyard and surrounding peaks of the Holme Valley. The design is stylish but simple, letting the natural beauty of the area speak for itself. After an agonising few minutes spent toying between many delicious options (a menu rarity for a vegetarian!), I opted for wild mushroom tart which proved a very rewarding choice indeed. The puff pastry was light and perfectly crispy, generously loaded with a delicious filling of sautéed wild mushrooms, liberal dollops of creamy ricotta cheese, balsamic-infused onions and tangy chunks of cheddar. Restoring balance, my partner opted for a burger containing the biggest hunk of meat I have ever seen – an 8oZ Aberdeen Angus burger unreservedly adorned with lashings of wholegrain mustard mayonnaise and blue cheese. I was hoping for a glass of Solaris to accompany my meal but unfortunately there was none available – the only downside to the small size of the winery. Instead, I washed the tart down with a glass of Chilean Chardonnay, kindly given to me as a prize for my winning wine-geekery!
So, who knew such a viticultural treasure lay in wait just miles away from Leeds? A visit that delighted, surprised and exceeded all expectations, I’m already planning my next trip to stock up on Solaris when the next batch has been produced!
