Dough Bistro, West Park, Leeds

Saturday night saw us enjoying dinner at Dough Bistro, in West Park. Living within ten minutes of the place, Dough is the one restaurant that’s been ‘on the list’ for too long. All in all, we’re glad we visited.

Dough is small, but even though we were the first people in on a Saturday night, managed to maintain a decent atmosphere, courtesy of what sounded like the Amelie soundtrack only adding to the intimate, candle-lit atmosphere. It’s a Bistro; and unashamedly so. Our waitress was attentive yet unobtrusive, and entirely pleasant.

Onto the main event; the food. Dough’s food is undoubtedly the trump card here; an ever-changing, vibrant menu, modern-British and organic where possible. Flavour is king here, and there’s no fussiness. We opted for two courses, being a starter and a main course. Thyme-scented bread – homecooked no less – helped us mull over our choices whilst my wife sipped a glass of wine and I enjoyed an Old Speckled Hen.

My starter, confit of Duck and Rabbit in a filo pastry case sitting on sweet chutney, was earthy, hearty and appetising in all the right ways. Striking a nice balance between sweet and savoury, the meat was tender and the little chunks of blue cheese that topped it just struck a late, salty note to finish things off. Like most starters that appear before me, it disappeared way too quickly.

I find it hard to look past Black Pudding on a menu, so the main course of Old Spot Pork with Black Pudding and Pea Puree was a no-brainer. Delicious it was too; the pork subtly pink and sweet, the slice of black pudding a revelation – peppery, mild in taste and crumbling under the fork. The scallop on top was perfectly cooked but superfluous. The simple marriage of Pork and black pudding won me over here – simple flavours but superbly executed.

My wife’s chowder was tasty as well; a sizeable chunk of fish served on top of crayfish tails, potatoes and fresh, snappy peas in a rich cream sauce. Hearty fare indeed, but it hit the spot.

There’s a couple of minor niggles that Dough just need to iron out. Firstly – no credit card payment facility. Really? It’s 2011 – and so expect that people just aren’t going to suffer ‘nipping to the cashpoint at the co-op next door’ too long – it’s simply inconvenient.  Also, you can bring your own wine, but why not beer? Both are sold on the premises, but a menu like Dough’s is crying out for decent beer. Obviously I’m biased, but I can’t understand – the chowder would have been brought alive by a fragrant Witbier or a zippy Blonde ale, and my Pork and Black Pudding would have been wonderful washed down with a silky, smoky Porter.

These niggles are minor, however. Dough’s a great little Bistro; not expensive but not cheap – somewhere inbetween. If you want good food cooked very well and an intimate atmosphere, head over to West Park  – but don’t forget to go to the cashpoint first.