Revisiting The Alley Pubs of Leeds

With Trinity Quarter taking shape at the lower end of Briggate, Leeds’ oldest street seems to be at the beginning of a much-needed rebirth. Things seem to be kick-starting again, and the same could be said for the pubs that inhabit the alleys off the famous thoroughfare.

The Ship, The Pack Horse and Whitelocks have all spent too many years trading on past glories; consigned largely to Briggate’s past, looking on passively whilst new bars and pubs garner headlines and kudos. Mere mention of them normally evokes a response along the lines of ‘….Ooh. Used to be a great pub…’ and a rose-tinted glaze over the eyes.

How are they surviving? Are they surviving at all; or just treading water?

Well, there’s only one way to find out – and I’ve been as guilty as the next person for neglecting these faded jewels. So my drinking buddy and I took a tour last week; and came away pleasantly surprised. First up, The Ship.

The smallest of the trio but possessing one of the warmest welcomes, The Ship has recently pinned is colours to the mast with events on most nights – quizzes and open mic nights and such –  and seems to be doing well. a small but perfectly-formed line-up of solid beers from the region greeted us  – Ilkley and Ridgeside being favorites alongside the likes of Black Sheep and Copper Dragon – and within minutes my buddy and I were ensconced at a table, deep in conversation and feeling entirely at home.

The Ship had that week been undergoing a bit of a spruce-up – it still boasted some wet paint in places – but you can’t deny that The Ship has a rough-hewn charm and an ease of atmosphere that good pubs strive for.  Only the large TV playing Sky News distracted from the feel of the place; but that’s purely personal preference. It’s a no-nonsense boozer but clean, with good beer and a warm welcome.

We were somewhat surprised to have to push past a crowd of drinkers huddling around the entrance to The Pack Horse; driven outside by the smoking ban but taking refuge in the neat little courtyard that our hosts have created. One of the oldest pubs in Leeds, The Pack Horse has probably undergone the most visible makeover in recent years; the bar has been overhauled and  the place has a feel of a split personality; in one corner a snug little pub serving Yorkshire ales, in another corner a music bar for the younger crowd.

Suits sit drinking de-stressing pints of Saltaire Blonde before catching the bus home next to a group of female music students discussing their current project over a shared bottle of wine. This little niche seems to serve The Pack Horse well; it was busy enough for a Tuesday night. If you like good music (mostly guitar-based – which is fine with me!) and real ale, then The Pack Horse (along with the other Pack Horse in Woodhouse, strangely) is one to seek out.

Whitelock’s has already covered some ground to shake off the somewhat tardy attitude it had developed in recent years.  Now, another warm welcome and gently  humming pub in the family, Whitelock’s has certainly regained some of its pride. There are subtle changes if you look closely; the beer is closer to home (almost exclusively Yorkshire), the chefs can now be seen cooking at the end of the building, and the tables are host to menus as well as beermats. There is a focus on the food, yes, but it’s in no way a Gastropub where drinkers are made to feel second-class. The whole place now has a  sense of what it wants to be, and Mason & Taylor have done an excellent job in honouring the past of the most famous pub in Leeds and laying foundations for its survival in the years to come.

As we sit, pints of Old Peculier and a tasty cheeseboard at our elbows, I can’t help but be pleased at the surprising resilience and survival of these pubs. All were cosy; dark corners available if you want them but with no sinister overtone. All served – and this is a big plus for me – Real Ale in excellent condition, served by polite, friendly and knowledgable staff,  and from a pretty much exclusive Yorkshire regionality. Food was served in all three; from the simple Burger and Sandwich fare to home-made scotch Eggs. And perhaps, most pleasingly, all three were pleasantly busy for a rainy Tuesday night.

Bravo, the alley pubs of Briggate; see you soon. I won’t stay away as long this time.

 

One comment

  1. How is it possible that The Angel has been missed off this list? Not even a mention!?

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